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Someone has been here before

and there is no dead body, so I must be on the right trail

storm 58 °F

Arriving in El Chalten has been a mixed blessing. Prices are sky high, camping is crowded. So it´s time to hit the woods once again where I can find peace and quiet. So I went for a walkabout. risa_184.jpg risa_206.jpg

After visiting Cerro Torre, which was awesome, I went on a 4 day trek up Cerro Huemul, to see the third largest ice field in the world. The arctic and Antarctica are the largest, but this was a freeway or glacier longer than the eye can see. The national Park Guy was pretty pathetic at giving any information, basically he said ¨we are trying to keep it wild, and we have no maps, go find one somewhere else, and don´t go alone.¨ He was not the least bit helpful and probably lacking a girlfriend or wife I surmised. So I left him and went on my way. Weather forecast was sunny one day out of three, and get out by Friday or I will regret it.

270_risa_215.jpg So off I went. Luckily, my biker buddies Kristof and Doris would be out in the wild also, so if I needed to steal pasta, I knew where to find it. Headed into the woods, to get to the glacier, I had to cross a river. One of the coldest miserable experiences of my trip.... I had to cross a good seven times to keep the water below my knees. Imagine sitcking your body in a pool of ice over and over again, and walking on river stones between dips. That is how I started my morning. Then ascended above the mountains and through the fields. risa_236.jpg

risa_245.jpg risa_265.jpgCrossed this glacier field, over the summit pass, and there it was, the third largest ice field. Not bad, a super highway of ice. Nature has impressed me yet again. And I had two good buddies to celebrate with. risa_287.jpg risa_272.jpgrisa_268.jpgrisa_283.jpg

On the descent days later, I walked to the head of the glacier. Wow. risa_412.jpg

Massive blocks of ice right in front of my campsite. The blue was amazing. A huge storm hit that night, with howling winds, trees down, and rain dumping from the sky. So I built a shelter for my bivy. I love you bivy. risa_395.jpg

Luckily the howling wind and massive rain knocked the ice off the glacier and I woke up to over 75 icebergs at my front door. I got to see whales, sharks, even dinosaurs. It was pretty awesome. risa_371.jpgrisa_324.jpg5risa_349.jpgrisa_373.jpg risa_362.jpg

And then time to head home. Imagine this scenario. last moments before getting to the highway, I have to cross another river. I was told not to go on to a man´s property, either his dog bites or he carries a gun and makes women sit and drink alcohol with him. Nonetheless, the river was quiet high and super fast. So I walked along his property to the bay, trying to find the safest crossing. None. So I resigned myself to cross where the water was deep, but not fast. I took off my shoes, as I don´t want wet feet for the next 4 days, and even my pants. Crossed 4 times, hoping a boat wouldn´t come by, and I was butt naked literally, and the water rose up to my sports bra. Finally when I made the last crossing, I threw my backpack onto shore... and BAM, dropped my shoes in the river. DOH!!! And then it began to rain. I didn´t know whether to laugh or cry.

Luckily I was able to hitch the last section of road home, as to not get too wet.

But it was all worth the iceberg show. 8risa_265.jpgrisa_337.jpg

Posted by risajs 10:49 Archived in Argentina Tagged cerro huemul

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Comments

You're one crazy woman - nice picture of your ass. who took that BTW?

by Lisa

Risa, you are amazing! You know my socks off and inspire me with your adventures. Safe travels!

by Ursula

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